A Day in Exeter

Whew! Today has been LONG, exhausting, and INCREDIBLE. I woke up at 6:30 this morning, hastily dressed and packed a bag, and headed to the bus station to meet some of my international friends. The sun doesn’t really rise here until 8 am, so it was dark and there was absolutely no traffic around. One thing that seemed amazing to me, however, was that when I woke up at 6:30, the people partying outside from last night were… still outside partying. I have no idea how they manage to continue all night long, but I do know that it’s difficult to sleep comfortably here when there is shouting outside of my window at all hours of the night.

I boarded the Megabus to Exeter at 7:45. The journey took a little over an hour, and parts of it were quite scenic. The bus even had WiFi, which was a plus for all of us without cellular service. 🙂 Riding in buses here tends to make me feel carsick, because most of the roads are incredibly narrow and winding, and many consist of a series of roundabouts that literally flip your stomach over. For such a nice bus, the journey there and back was only 10 pounds total, which was quite cheap!

After arriving in Exeter, my friends and I found our way to the city center. Most shops were not open yet, since it was quite early, so we stopped at a Costa Coffee for a morning energizer. I had a croissant with strawberry jam and a caramel latte, which was incredible. The man sitting on my right heard my accent and questioned me and my friend Eva about our origins. Even though he was English and lived in Exeter, he had spent some time in Hawaii and had lived in the outskirts of Atlanta. We chatted for a while about America, and he gave us loads of recommendations for things to do during our day in the city. It was nice meeting him.

After our coffee, we decided to make our way to the Exeter Cathedral. This was my first visit to an English cathedral, and I was extremely excited. The outside of the place is absolutely incredible- the entire front is made of stone, which has intricate carvings of religious figures, gargoyles, and animals. By glancing at many of the carvings, it was clear just how old they were. Wind and rain have eroded some of the faces of the figures.

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Inside the cathedral, we paid a small entry fee and were given leaflets with historical information. The construction of the cathedral began in 1114, and it was built in the Norman style, also known as Romanesque. As time passed and the church fell into the hands of new bishops, a massive rebuild occurred, transforming the cathedral from Romanesque style to Decorated Gothic style, a style exclusive to England. The newest parts of the cathedral date back to 1370- still so old that I can not fathom life at that time.

I am sitting here trying to find the words to describe my experience in the cathedral with you, but I am failing. I am not particularly religious, but the visit was a profoundly moving spiritual experience. There is an air of instantaneous peacefulness and majestic wisdom that envelops you when you are within its 900-year-old walls. There are many tombs and memorials within the cathedral, and many of the floor stones are actually tombstones. It literally felt like I was walking amongst hundreds of beautiful souls. Around the edges of the interior, there are multiple chapels, each one dedicated to a particular saint. The stained-glass windows took my breath away. There are places to pray silently, to write a prayer request, or to light a candle in front of the nativity or the Virgin Mary. I sat amongst the stillness and took time to reflect upon myself and the immensity of my visit.

After leaving the cathedral, we visited the Royal Albert Memorial Museum (RAMM for short). This museum contains artifacts and exhibits from around the world, not just Exeter and the rest of England. I am captivated by history (have you noticed?), so I was blown away by some of the things I saw. I’m particularly fascinated by Egyptian history, so seeing a 3,000 year old sarcophagus and mummified falcons was an experience to remember. There was one particularly moving exhibit entitled “The Faces of Conflict,” providing insight into wartime injuries and early facial reconstructive surgery. My international companions and I left with a renewed thankfulness for our health and safety.

After the museum, we headed to lunch at The Cosy Club, a renovated old hospital a short walk away. This place was a suggestion of our new friend from Costa Coffee, so we were excited and eager to try it! The restaurant was oozing with character. Jazz music filtered through our ears, couches served as booths, and various old hospital artifacts were displayed on walls illuminated by Gatsby-esque fringe chandeliers. The walls themselves were fascinating- they have not been retouched, so they are covered with chipping paint that makes the place all that much cooler. I had an unbelievably fresh-tasting burger, which I demolished in about three seconds.

Once lunch was finished, we met up with some other Plymouth students for a brief tour of the Exeter catacombs. Seeing all of the old tombstones and trying to make out their writing was great fun. Afterward, we all shopped around a little bit, returning to the cathedral to participate in the Evensong Catholic service at 4.

Evensong was one of the highlights of the day. Exploring the cathedral on my own was amazing in itself, but actually participating in a service really rounded out the whole visit. I do not have much experience with Catholic services, but I thoroughly enjoyed observing and participating. The girl’s choir performed all of the hymns, psalms, and sung prayers, and their angelic young voices positively reverberated off of the old stone walls. The organ music, played on an organ built in the 1600s, was beautiful also. I left feeling spiritually lifted, relaxed, and perfectly content.

We stopped for a sweet treat and a quick rest at Patisserie Valerie. Their shop window was full of the most mouth-watering desserts one could ever pick from. I chose a strawberry tart, which, as expected, was utter perfection. My friend Nathalie ordered the mixed berry mousse, which I proceeded to taste and marvel at its lightness and flavor.

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Full and tired, we headed back to the bus station. Our bus left quickly, and we arrived back in Plymouth about thirty minutes earlier than expected.

It was an absolutely magical day, and one that I will remember for years to come. I could feel my friendships with my international counterparts strengthening by the minute. We had many wonderful discussions and shared many laughs together. I would not have wanted to travel with another group.

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Exeter is a city full of majestic history, friendly people, and tempting shops and restaurants. I hope to go back again soon…. But for now, a good night’s sleep.

xx, Summer

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Tea Time!

Yesterday was Wednesday, and after I finished my history lecture at 10, I had a free afternoon. At 2:30, I met up with almost all of the other students studying here from UNCG. I have not hung out with my NC counterparts very much (besides Cori) since arriving here, because I am trying to make friends with as many other international students and British students as possible. However, the rest of the UNCG crew tends to stick pretty close together, so it was nice to have a chance to hang out with them and chat about our experiences so far at Plymouth.

We decided to take a walk down to the Barbican and partake in tea time at the Tudor Rose Tea Rooms. The Tudor Rose is located down one of the Barbican’s oldest streets. What it lacks in space, it makes up for in charm!

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The Tudor Rose had a lengthy menu of coffee drinks, breakfast specialties, teas, sandwiches, and desserts. I decided to order the Traditional Devonshire Cream Tea (a pot of Devon tea, two scones, clotted cream, and strawberry jam). Cream tea is a tradition very dear to Devon, the county that Plymouth resides in. In Devon, you place the cream on the scone first, followed by the jam; in the neighboring county of Cornwall, the jam goes first. This long-standing debate keeps the tradition of cream tea alive.

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I am not a tea drinker, so I had a difficult time mixing my tea with the proper amounts of cream and sugar. At first, I made it too sweet, but after adding more tea, it wasn’t quite sweet enough. In the end, I decided to just set my tea aside. 🙂 I’m not quite sure what sets Devon tea apart from other teas, due to my lack of tea-drinking experience, but it has a very nice flavor and I am sure I will bring some home with me when I return to America.

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For a traditional cream tea, you start with two plain scones, split in half (in this case, the second had raisins). There is no glaze or powdered sugar or extra sweetening involved. Next comes the clotted cream, which is basically a decadent cross between whipped cream and butter. Spoonfuls of sweet strawberry jam top off each half. MY, were they incredible! The scones were incredibly rich and dense, so I was only able to finish ONE of them.

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One of the girls that attended the tea, Gabrielle, ordered the Traditional High Tea, which came with a pot of Devon tea, cucumber sandwiches, a scone, and a variety of homemade cakes. Her Victorian sponge cake looked absolutely delicious.

I enjoyed sharing tea time and conversation with the other members of the group. We talked a lot about traveling, cultural differences we have noticed, and new friends we have made. Because I am not a tea drinker, I probably won’t go out for many cream teas in the future. However, I’m sure I’ll stop in every now and again for one of those amazing scones!

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The girls in the group- Spartan pride!

This weekend, I’m heading to the nearby city of Exeter for a day trip! Expect another post very soon. 🙂

xx, Summer

The Plymouth Hoe

On Sunday, I began the day embarrassingly lazy. I slept in, had a big bowl of cereal, continued to lay in my bed, and wasted valuable hours of sunlight. Before coming to Plymouth, I imagined myself spending every moment of free time busy with exploration. This has ended up NOT being the case- I feel tired very quickly here, and because it is so cold and windy, it really takes dedication to head outside.

Fortunately, a group of international students decided to meet up at 2 o’clock and take a walk to the Hoe. I donned four layers of clothing and (still freezing) met them outside of the Roland Levinsky building.

The Plymouth Hoe is one of the most picturesque places the city offers residents and tourists. It is an expansive public space covered with lush green grass that overlooks the Plymouth Sound.

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Its history is rich; Sir Francis Drake played bowling games (not the kind with pins and bumpers) on its grass before departing to defeat the Spanish Armada. The Beatles were even photographed sitting on the Hoe (!!!).

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The Hoe is home to Smeaton’s Tower, the city’s iconic red-and-white-striped lighthouse that was moved and rebuilt from its original location 14 miles out to sea.The area is surrounded by the Royal Citadel, a massive navy fortress constructed in the 1660s to protect the city from the Dutch. The fortress is still in active use by the Navy, so visitor access is rather limited. There are a variety of cafés and ice cream vans around the Hoe, ready to serve hungry visitors. The Tinside Lido, a massive natural seawater swimming pool, is located in the Hoe. It is a restored 1935 art deco lido, and it is open from April to September.

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The views from the Hoe are breathtaking. You can look across the water at Cornwall, Devon’s neighboring county. There is a small island off of the Hoe called Drake’s Island. It is shrouded in an air of mystery, because it is now privately owned and most visitor access is restricted. Sir Frances Drake left from this island to begin his famous circumnavigational trip; later, he became its governor. It has served as a state prison, and saw military use during all major wars. At any given time, you can watch sailboats, fishing boats, and large vessels speckle the water.

The Hoe is a famous viewing platform for the British Firework Championships, and the grassy space is used for many festivals and free music concerts in the summertime. If only it was that time of year now! During the rest of the year, visitors can come to the Hoe to play sports, take scenic walks, throw a Frisbee with their pets, rollerblade, or grab a bite to eat. The Hoe connects with the South West Coast Path, which is 630 miles of scenic coastal walking. There are multiple memorials here, including the Naval War Memorial, the RAF Memorial, the Armada Memorial, and the Drake Statue.

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My international friends and I walked around this entire scenic area, pausing here and there to take pictures and chat about the beautiful views. It was a delightfully sunny day, so the area was abuzz with families, couples, students, and pets out for some fun. We walked over to the Barbican, crossed the Harbor footbridge, and walked past the aquarium. We saw a seal swimming in the harbor- unfortunately, he decided to slow down and float for a long time, so I was unable to get a picture that depicted him as anything more than a rock in the water. We walked along the South West Coast Path for a little before splitting up and heading back home.

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It was a wonderful little outing, and I was able to take some nice photos- enjoy! Hope you all had an excellent Sunday as well.

xx, Summer

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Getting Settled

The first thing that hits you about Plymouth is the weather. It LITERALLY hits you- the gusts of wind here will almost knock you over. Like the rest of England, it rains very often, and possibly more so here in Plymouth, due to all the moist sea air. When the sun comes out, it isn’t for long, but it is just enough to restore the spirits of those who live here.Screen Shot 2015-01-16 at 2.40.47 PM

The second thing that hits you about Plymouth is its charm. The city is the perfect mix of historical and modern. Because it was bombed heavily during the war, most of the buildings in the city center were demolished, leaving space for some of the sleek new architecture. Drake’s Circus, which is a giant shopping center and mall, has a beautifully constructed modern exterior, as does the Roland Levinsky building, which serves as a main artery for the university. Because Plymouth has an extensive history as an important port city, there are some incredible historical buildings around. The Barbican, which is the area near the harbor, still has original cobblestone streets and rows of buildings dating back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The oldest church here dates back to the 1100s (which I can not even wrap my mind around). I hope to go visit that very soon!

A view of the area close to me- that's the Roland Levinsky building!

Almost everything in Plymouth is within walking distance. I am impressed with how compact and well-organized the city is. I enjoy walking everywhere- there’s absolutely no need for a car, and I haven’t had to use public transportation yet to get anywhere. It’s a great way to get in some extra exercise, and it’s a fun way to see some of the surroundings.

The university is right in the center of the city. You can cross the campus in five minutes. You might wonder how that is possible when Plymouth enrolls 30,000 students. As one international student guide told us, the university builds up when it needs more space, rather than building out. That explains why almost every building on campus is extremely tall!

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The nightlife here is much busier than back home. This is mainly attributed to the fact that all students here are of drinking age, and the city is small and close-knit. There are pubs everywhere, and they get quite busy. There is also an eclectic mix of sports bars, bars with small dance floors, clubs, and mega-clubs, like Oceana, which I visited for the first time on Monday. Oceana has multiple dancing rooms and countless bars. Even the student union on campus has a nightclub area, along with a few bars of its own! Drinking is definitely one of the favorite pastimes on campus. There are certain nights of the week that most students go out- namely, Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday- but you can hear partying on any night! The flats above and below mine throw down daily, so I have to use a fan sound app on my iPhone to fall asleep. It’s a lot of fun, though, because there’s always something going on!!

I’ve met some really nice people so far. The international students are extremely enthusiastic about their time here, and there are some events geared just for us, such as tonight’s “chat and beer” pub meetup. I have hung out a few times with one of my flatmates, Naomi, a first-year student from London, and her group of friends, also from the dorm I’m living in. They are all very warm, inviting, and rowdy! I have met a girl named Nathalie that has turned into my gym buddy, and many of us international students are signing up to attend various trips, such as a weekend excursion to Amsterdam in March.

International friends having a drink at the pub.

International friends having a drink at the pub.

Because I do not have cell service here, I am in contact with those back home over Wi-Fi. I did decide to buy a cheap pay-as-you-go phone here in case I need to contact locals. Check it out- it’s a beauty.

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Another interesting thing about my time here is that I am in charge of shopping for, buying, and cooking all of my food. I have never had this responsibility before, so it is both a challenge and a very valuable learning experience. Cori and I take weekly trips to Sainsbury’s Supermarket to try and buy what we need. I learned how to bake chicken for the first time. Wasn’t as good as back home, but it made for a few nights of healthy meals. I’m trying to eat as healthy (and cheap) as possible, whenever possible- lots of veggies, fruit, healthy cereal, bagels, whole-wheat pasta, and some good lean protein. Of course, since I like food so much, there has to be plenty of time and money reserved for checking out the restaurants and traditional eats around Plymouth. 🙂

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Another thing I have fallen in love with over here is Primark. We do not have a Primark back home, so let me explain what it is for those who do not know: Primark is a clothing/shoe/houseware store with super cheap prices. Because everyone here is so stylish, a budget chain is necessary- and Primark does NOT disappoint. Think Forever 21-type clothes, but cheaper- and almost better quality. I most recently bought the cutest baseball cap for a pound (!), along with a chunky lavender sweater and a cute top. I have a feeling that I will be buying out the store and shipping it all home before my semester is over. 🙂

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I will provide updates soon about my travels and about my classes. I have made a gallery of some photos of the area, so feel free to look at it below 🙂

Thanks for reading! xx

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Arrival!

I began my study abroad adventure on Monday, January 5th. I boarded a plane from Raleigh to Atlanta with my friend from school, Cori Cauthen. Neither one of us had much experience with planes, airports, or out-of-country travel, so we decided to embark upon this journey together. Once in Atlanta, we took a train to our concourse, had a quick bite to eat, and boarded our giant 747 airplane to London-Heathrow.

I had this brilliant idea to sleep on the overnight flight to London, but when I actually stepped onto the plane, I realized that my idea was going to be impossible. I now know just how small economy seats are, and when the airplane staff says that they recline, they only mean five inches backward. The flight was absolutely surreal, however. Flying over Atlanta at night was positively magical, as was the sunrise above the clouds when we flew into England.

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The view of Atlanta from the plane.

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Good morning, England!

After arriving at Heathrow, both drained and excited, we took the Heathrow Express train to London Paddington Station, where we figured out how to hail a taxi. Our taxi driver was extremely friendly and knowledgable, and he got us from the station to the Maide Vale neighborhood in about six minutes. Cori and I stayed that night with some family friends, which was a total blessing. We were shown to warm beds, offered hot showers, fed a fabulous dinner, and received smart travel advice- all for free.

The next morning, the family’s housekeeper took us on a double-decker bus back to Paddington Station, where we retrieved our tickets for our 11:00 train ride to Plymouth. We were met with a wall of adversity, however, when we found Paddington completely shut down. All trains were delayed or canceled due to a fatality on the line. The station was in a state of chaos as customer service representatives discussed other routes for travelers. Cori and I decided to try and wait it out, which ended up being a smart decision- the station was back up and running right before our train arrived!

The train ride was a brand-new experience for me. Back home, train travel is not quite as common, and it is definitely not as efficient as in England. The ride was smooth and scenic, passing through beautiful hills, quaint neighborhoods, farmland, and, at one point, chugging along directly beside the sea. We met some incredible people on the train, including some Plymouth University students returning from holiday. When the train arrived in Plymouth, we asked to use someone’s phone, and called the number for the RA of our dorm, Gilwell Hall. He was on his way to the train station to meet another group of students, so we waited for him to take us back to the dorm.

Once we got checked in to our hall and given our room keys, it was around 4:30 pm, and the sky was already almost dark. Cori and I were starving because we hadn’t eaten any lunch, but our first thought was that we needed to go buy bedding. Most stores in Plymouth close around 6 o’clock, and since we had no idea where any stores were, we figured that food could wait. We asked around and ended up at Wilkinson’s, a store very similar to a K-Mart back home. We picked up cheap bedding supplies and then indulged in a delicious dinner and legal beer at The Roundabout Pub.

After the long day we’d had, we were eager to return to our rooms in Gilwell and get some sleep, which happened almost immediately after laying down our heads.

Gilwell is separated into blocks, which are then separated into flats. Each flat has six single bedrooms, one toilet, one shower, and one kitchen. It’s not the nicest of accommodations, but I am more than pleased with the setup for this semester. I’ve already met one flatmate, a 25-year-old Austrian exchange student named Ricci. She is extremely sweet, but she is moving out at the end of January to head back to Austria. I’m hoping we get to spend a little time with her before she leaves.

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The view outside of my window- the backside of two bars.

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Another bar outside of my window, called the Skiving Scholar.

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Now that I’m settled in, I can begin to explore the city of Plymouth. More to come!

xx, Summer