A Day in Exeter
Whew! Today has been LONG, exhausting, and INCREDIBLE. I woke up at 6:30 this morning, hastily dressed and packed a bag, and headed to the bus station to meet some of my international friends. The sun doesn’t really rise here until 8 am, so it was dark and there was absolutely no traffic around. One thing that seemed amazing to me, however, was that when I woke up at 6:30, the people partying outside from last night were… still outside partying. I have no idea how they manage to continue all night long, but I do know that it’s difficult to sleep comfortably here when there is shouting outside of my window at all hours of the night.
I boarded the Megabus to Exeter at 7:45. The journey took a little over an hour, and parts of it were quite scenic. The bus even had WiFi, which was a plus for all of us without cellular service. 🙂 Riding in buses here tends to make me feel carsick, because most of the roads are incredibly narrow and winding, and many consist of a series of roundabouts that literally flip your stomach over. For such a nice bus, the journey there and back was only 10 pounds total, which was quite cheap!
After arriving in Exeter, my friends and I found our way to the city center. Most shops were not open yet, since it was quite early, so we stopped at a Costa Coffee for a morning energizer. I had a croissant with strawberry jam and a caramel latte, which was incredible. The man sitting on my right heard my accent and questioned me and my friend Eva about our origins. Even though he was English and lived in Exeter, he had spent some time in Hawaii and had lived in the outskirts of Atlanta. We chatted for a while about America, and he gave us loads of recommendations for things to do during our day in the city. It was nice meeting him.
After our coffee, we decided to make our way to the Exeter Cathedral. This was my first visit to an English cathedral, and I was extremely excited. The outside of the place is absolutely incredible- the entire front is made of stone, which has intricate carvings of religious figures, gargoyles, and animals. By glancing at many of the carvings, it was clear just how old they were. Wind and rain have eroded some of the faces of the figures.
Inside the cathedral, we paid a small entry fee and were given leaflets with historical information. The construction of the cathedral began in 1114, and it was built in the Norman style, also known as Romanesque. As time passed and the church fell into the hands of new bishops, a massive rebuild occurred, transforming the cathedral from Romanesque style to Decorated Gothic style, a style exclusive to England. The newest parts of the cathedral date back to 1370- still so old that I can not fathom life at that time.
I am sitting here trying to find the words to describe my experience in the cathedral with you, but I am failing. I am not particularly religious, but the visit was a profoundly moving spiritual experience. There is an air of instantaneous peacefulness and majestic wisdom that envelops you when you are within its 900-year-old walls. There are many tombs and memorials within the cathedral, and many of the floor stones are actually tombstones. It literally felt like I was walking amongst hundreds of beautiful souls. Around the edges of the interior, there are multiple chapels, each one dedicated to a particular saint. The stained-glass windows took my breath away. There are places to pray silently, to write a prayer request, or to light a candle in front of the nativity or the Virgin Mary. I sat amongst the stillness and took time to reflect upon myself and the immensity of my visit.
After leaving the cathedral, we visited the Royal Albert Memorial Museum (RAMM for short). This museum contains artifacts and exhibits from around the world, not just Exeter and the rest of England. I am captivated by history (have you noticed?), so I was blown away by some of the things I saw. I’m particularly fascinated by Egyptian history, so seeing a 3,000 year old sarcophagus and mummified falcons was an experience to remember. There was one particularly moving exhibit entitled “The Faces of Conflict,” providing insight into wartime injuries and early facial reconstructive surgery. My international companions and I left with a renewed thankfulness for our health and safety.
After the museum, we headed to lunch at The Cosy Club, a renovated old hospital a short walk away. This place was a suggestion of our new friend from Costa Coffee, so we were excited and eager to try it! The restaurant was oozing with character. Jazz music filtered through our ears, couches served as booths, and various old hospital artifacts were displayed on walls illuminated by Gatsby-esque fringe chandeliers. The walls themselves were fascinating- they have not been retouched, so they are covered with chipping paint that makes the place all that much cooler. I had an unbelievably fresh-tasting burger, which I demolished in about three seconds.
Once lunch was finished, we met up with some other Plymouth students for a brief tour of the Exeter catacombs. Seeing all of the old tombstones and trying to make out their writing was great fun. Afterward, we all shopped around a little bit, returning to the cathedral to participate in the Evensong Catholic service at 4.
Evensong was one of the highlights of the day. Exploring the cathedral on my own was amazing in itself, but actually participating in a service really rounded out the whole visit. I do not have much experience with Catholic services, but I thoroughly enjoyed observing and participating. The girl’s choir performed all of the hymns, psalms, and sung prayers, and their angelic young voices positively reverberated off of the old stone walls. The organ music, played on an organ built in the 1600s, was beautiful also. I left feeling spiritually lifted, relaxed, and perfectly content.
We stopped for a sweet treat and a quick rest at Patisserie Valerie. Their shop window was full of the most mouth-watering desserts one could ever pick from. I chose a strawberry tart, which, as expected, was utter perfection. My friend Nathalie ordered the mixed berry mousse, which I proceeded to taste and marvel at its lightness and flavor.
Full and tired, we headed back to the bus station. Our bus left quickly, and we arrived back in Plymouth about thirty minutes earlier than expected.
It was an absolutely magical day, and one that I will remember for years to come. I could feel my friendships with my international counterparts strengthening by the minute. We had many wonderful discussions and shared many laughs together. I would not have wanted to travel with another group.
Exeter is a city full of majestic history, friendly people, and tempting shops and restaurants. I hope to go back again soon…. But for now, a good night’s sleep.
xx, Summer